Tuesday 14 January 2014


I have taken more beatings, caught less waves and surfed this spot more in the last 14 days than I have in two years. Finally I have come to terms with its reputation and can honestly say I love it. The power is completely addictive and whilst this is my closest thing to a local spot, its taken a long time to come to understand it. Tides, winds, swell and gatekeepers make it so much more than just another wave you can drop into. Happy new year, 14 days sober and counting.

4 comments:

  1. Doesn't the unevenness of the reef put you off at all ?

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  2. yes, it does particularly walking at low tide, but that is just one of a number of factors that gnaws at you.
    It reminds me of climbing, in the sense that you can let it beat you or you can set yourself the challenge to overcome. This place has some real demons to get past though.

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  3. Have you been surfing the right into the valley or the wedge going towards the spire? The left can be a stern mistress but but she puts out too. Taking off behind her peak eludes me most of the time but just occasionally she grants me a favour. Not a natural hunting ground for stubby fish like boards?

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  4. I have really found using smaller boards works a lot better down there. I now use a lot less foam.

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