Saturday 27 July 2013


Having sold the Bing, it was nice to get back to this old board with a little more chunk and possibly more compatibility with the dying swell. Its strange how such an amazing shape produced by Matt Calvani seems to make such a difference, only to return to your own hand shape and somehow still find it relevant and very effective. This morning's dropping swell was still an awful lot of fun with only one other in the line up.


Thursday 25 July 2013


Despite a slight chance of swell this week, its been really rather flat. So with all the heat, I have had my latest inspiration from the BBQ grill. Jamie cooked the best lobster this weekend, and has been scuttling about the reefs in search of our red clawed friends. It might seem a touch cruel, but not when you taste that little lobster claw with chilli butter and a sense of pride that it was caught with your own bare hands.

Sunday 14 July 2013


Dived in the clearest water today with an old friend from Scotland, hence nothing but a rash vest and shorts. Things were all good, until Bear (top right) would find us, and try and rescue with determined doggy paddle and quick succession of barking to sound the alarm. I have never known a dog so infatuated with water, and needing to be so close when swimming. A true friend, and literally hounding you every stroke of the way!

Saturday 6 July 2013


The early saturday morning session was probably my best for months. Paddled out on the CC slider into the cleanest small swell and saw so many faces it was just perfect. The social aspect and sharing waves with nice people has to be my most favourite thing about surfing other than the actual sport itself. Both Johnny and Simon seemed to reinforce the fact that summer was indeed upon us, with Simon even feeling the need to peel down his suit halfway. I think this must have somehow been an hommage to the late great Rob who moved off to the channel islands. If he'd been out today it would have just been shorts and a baseball cap.  Hope you are getting some wherever you may be.

Friday 5 July 2013


Finally a summer worthy of staying home. Westerly was a little stronger than hoped today but I got out early enough in the blue skies and head high sets. Last day of swell for a while now and looks like the heat wave is going to continue for the forseeable.

Wednesday 3 July 2013


Forecast looks set to be pretty perfect over the next couple of days, particularly if the backyard starts working as it should. Its not often enough that tide, swell and weather aligns as to warrant not going anywhere, especially to work. Soon enough El Palmar (above) will be the summer trip, and a much deserved sojourn to warmer climes.